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Records from street corners and small eateries in Taiwan, Japan, and Southeast Asia
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Japan– category –

  • Japan

    Notes on Ippudo and the Reframing of Tonkotsu Ramen

    A record of how smell, space, and design reshaped a regional dish One stands in front of the shop. It could be Tokyo, New York, or Paris — it makes no difference. The first thing registered is not a smell but its absence. A tonkotsu pork...
  • Japan

    Notes on the Overseas Path of Japanese Tonkotsu Ramen

    A bowl encountered in New York Open a ramen menu in New York, London, or Paris, and the photographs are likely to show an opaque white soup. Not the translucent amber of soy sauce, not the pale clarity of salt. White, from the beginning....
  • Japan

    Notes on the History of Japanese Tonkotsu Ramen

    The birth and evolution of a clouded white broth In Japan's dashi tradition, transparency has long been held as a mark of quality. Broth drawn from dried bonito and kombu maintains a clear, unclouded color. The earliest soy sauce ramen e...
  • Japan

    Notes on Japanese Tonkotsu Ramen

    A record of the white broth that traveled beyond its place of origin Walking through Hakata, there are points where the quality of the air shifts. Within a radius of roughly fifty meters, a distinctive animal smell spreads through the st...
  • Japan

    Notes on Japanese Ramen

    A record of density, structure, and the freedom that thickens flavor When a foreign visitor enters a Japanese ramen shop for the first time, what stops them is often not the flavor. It is the sound. The continuous noise of noodles being ...
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